Friday 29 June 2012

We Know We've Been Slacking


Yes, we know we’ve been slacking on our blog posts…but we’ve been busy busy busy!

Last weekend was a flurry of activity. On Friday night, the shorter (and better-looking) one of us went to the Virsky concert. Because his second-best friend didn’t join him, he shall now write a bit in the first-person narrative.

Andrijko: Virsky, as I expected, was magical. There’s just something about seeing top-level Ukrainian dancing in Ukraine that makes your heart glow. Most of the dances I didn’t recognize, so it was nice to see a different repertoire, rather than the same one I saw last year in Winnipeg. Except for the Russian dance and some random “Great Patriotic War” propaganda dance, I thoroughly enjoyed the show from start to finish. What I enjoyed just as much, or perhaps even more, was the live orchestra with three (count ‘em – THREE!) accordion players. I offered my services. No dice. Two random thoughts from the Virsky show:

-Ukrainian women are the most beautiful on the planet. You can take that one to the bank.

-Mikhas Chabluk—you are good enough to dance in Virsky. Zenon Ciz, you are not.

(Back to both of us writing…)

Saturday night, we went to Docker’s pub to watch the match and see Mad Heads, one of Ukraine’s most popular bands. There were about twenty-five of us - all CYMivtsi (from Canada, USA, and England). We even let some Plastuny join us as well. :) It was an entertaining and very high-energy show. Docker’s is a pretty small place, so the intimacy of the concert was what we really enjoyed. Mad Heads did two full sets of about an hour each, and we were right in the front row clapping, dancing, and drinking water. Best song of the night? П-п-п-Повний Aвтобус - Буратін! What the heck is an Avtobus Buratin? Anybody know?

Sunday was game day #3 for us. We had tickets to the Italy vs. England quarter-final. Lots of people we knew had tickets to the game, and we ourselves went with Roxy Luciw and Yuri “George Herbert Broadman” Broda. For the second time, we were in the very last row of the upper deck. Still decent seats though, and it’s better to be higher up to watch the beautiful game. Luckily, the penalty kicks that decided the winner were shot into the net on our side, so we had a perfect view. In front of us sat two men cheering for Italy, waving an English flag, wearing Ukraine jerseys, and speaking Russian. Globalization at its finest.

We also hit the beach a few times over the weekend. Good thing, because our friend Volodymyr told us that it’s a sin to come to Kyiv and not swim in the Dnipro. Nice sand, hot day, big group of Ukrainians from a few different countries. Perfect beach days! Sorry to all the locals that may have been struck by our Frisbee. Also, we don’t think people here know what Frisbees are. We already get weird looks for our accents and the way we dress, and now we get stares whilst tossing around a piece of plastic. “Silly diaspora Ukrainians,” the locals must be thinking.

Since then, we’ve had a full week of sightseeing and socializing, and watching the matches when they were on. Almost everybody we know who is in Ukraina has descended upon Kyiv. We’re usually in a big, fun, rowdy group of no less than twenty. Fun fun fun! Yesterday was Constitution Day in Ukraine (a national holiday), so we took in a concert at the fanzone with four of our favourite bands from Ukraine – Kozak System, T.i.K., Mad Heads, and Oleh Skrypka. The first three were great, but we were disappointed with Skrypka. We love VV (his band), so we expected to hear those hits. But, instead, he sang mostly in English, performing rockier versions of jazzy standards like “Fly me to the Moon.” Weird. He had a big-band type group backing him though, so that was neat. Andrijko spent the afternoon with the boys from Kozak System (formerly of Haydamaky), going to their sound check with them and then for drinks after their performance. No big deal. Andrijko also met a lady who was with them, who writes adult novels in Ukrainian. Yaryna Karpa is her name. Apparently she’s pretty famous! After the concert and game last night, we all went back to good old Art Club 44. That place never disappoints…we’ll leave it at that.

And that’s been our week! We’ll post some pictures with the next blog post. We have a lot to go through and choose from, many of which we’ll have to censor so our mamas don’t see them.

Elton John and Queen tomorrow…should be a heck of show!

Comment and let us know what’s going on in Canada :)

One last thing: today is game day in Canada. Go Bombers Go!

Saturday 23 June 2012

Calm Before the Storm?

With Ukraine out of the Euro Championship, the vibe in Kyiv is much more calm. The first day or two after Ukraine's loss to England, you could still hear chants of "Ukrayina - Vpered!", or "Ukrayina - Peremahay!", but much of that has subsided. The fan zone is much less busy - many of the Swedes that were merrily jeering there day and night have left...Swedish Corner looks oddly desolate. Hopefully by the quarter-final on June 24th (which it seems like every English-speaking person in Kyiv has tickets to), we'll see some of that soccer spirit again!

On the plus side, the weather has been beautiful the past few days. Unbearably hot is just the way we like it! In a land of perpetual long pants, expensive deodorant, and sporadic access to water, hot weather may be less desired than we think... The jury is still out on that one.


More from us after the weekend!

Wednesday 20 June 2012

Photo Update!

There's about a week's worth of photos here, including our trip to Donetsk and last night's Ukraine vs. England match. Please look, comment, and enjoy!

We made a friend. Not very chatty.

The cafe car on the new trains.

New trains!

Not amazingly fast, but faster than we're used to! (TWSS) These screens are located throughout each car and show information. The highest speed we saw on this screen was 161 km/hr.

Our friend Stepan from England ended up on the same train as us!

One of the few times we smiled in Donetsk.

I have one.

Two cities, two jumbotrons!

Cymivsti from Canada, England, and Australia.

En route to the Ukraine v. France game in Donetsk via the free shuttle.

Donbass Arena - game time!


Scary clouds.

The storm and the game started at the same time. Great view from our seats, though!

Fans unravel a giant tryzub banner.


Beach in Mariupol

Zenon and Yuri are in jail! Quick - someone send bail money!

Best borshcht - so far.

Andrijko found a wife.


Now Yuri and Roxy are famous!

Ruslana!

Crowd that gathered for Ruslana

Aerial shot of the Kyiv fanzone...madness!

Monday 18 June 2012

Don-etsk? Don't Tell!


Well, Mama Semaniuk’s threats must have worked.

No, Andrijko did not get a haircut (sorry Mama). We’re talking about her threats to write a strongly-worded letter to Ukrainian authorities regarding the dilapidated state of trains in Ukraine. “That’s it! I’m writing a letter to the President!” she exclaimed about six years ago, as all of us were drenched with sweat on our less-than-livable third-class train car. We guess someone listened!

We had the pleasure of taking the brand-new high-speed train from Kyiv to Donetsk last Thursday evening. What an improvement! With the comfortable and roomy seats, air conditioning, and smooth ride, one sometimes thinks he is on an airplane, and readies his seatback tray into the upright and locked position. The train includes a screen showing video clips of the new train and surrounding countryside, as well as information on weather, time, and speed of the train. The fastest we witnessed was 161 km/h. Yes, there were still some stops along the way, but this new Hyundai train shaved five hours off of the normal duration of the trip. All trains in Ukraina haven’t been upgraded, but this is a definite step in the right direction. Well done, Ukr-Zaliznytsya!

It is a strange day in Ukraina when your only complaint on the train is, “The wi-fi isn’t working.”  Ah, first-world problems.   

Once we arrived in Donetsk, we set out the next day to explore all that the city has to offer. Honestly…not much. Besides the Lenin statue, which shouldn’t even be there, the small river walk, and some other minor memorials, we didn’t find much to keep our interest. The volunteers in Donetsk were not as friendly or outgoing as in other cities.

The city itself did not seem to have as much EURO buzz as Kyiv. The fan-zone, essentially a giant parking lot, was rather sparsely populated, especially considering it was Friday night. Thank goodness it was game day!

The new Shaktar Stadium in Donetsk is beautiful; you even cross a pedestrian footbridge across a moat to get to it. The inside is equally appealing to the eyes, as the chairs are all nicely arranged in a pattern of black-and-orange (the colours of the local football club). White chairs spell out “Shakhtar Donetsk” on the main level. Why is the pattern of chairs in Olympic stadium so random?

The game, as many of you know, ended in disappointment for us Ukrainian fans, with our boys suffering a 2-0 loss at the hands of the ever-talented French squad. Some observations from the game:

-Those of you who watched saw the massive rain delay. Lucky for us, we were perfectly positioned to only get mildly rained on for a total of about ten minutes. People twenty metres away from us were soaked. We were dry. Jackpot.

-Only non-alcoholic beer was served at the game. Why bother? Good thing we don’t drink.

-You really DO meet Ukrainians from everywhere at this tournament. A brother and sister casually asked if they could take a picture with us, and now we have some more friends! They’re Ukrainians from Texas, one of whom remembers Zrada from Soyuzivka a few years back. This literally doubles our previous total of two friends. Points for us!

-Security is much tighter in Donetsk. At the Kyiv game, security basically looked at us, and said, “Go on through.” In Donetsk, every single individual entering the stadium was stopped, patted down, and some were searched or questioned to a greater degree. Many would be happy with the increased security, but others – not so much. A friend of ours wore a blue-and-yellow dress to the game. Nothing revealing, just your average dress that went down far past her knees. Security thought, however, that she was part of the Ukrainian all-female protest group FEMEN (yep, the ones that go topless) and denied her access. She and her mother were forced to go back to their hotel, get their passports, and show the security guards where they were from so they would be assured she is not part of the group in question. They even made her buy a jersey to cover up. That was unnecessary.

That was our game-day experience in Donetsk, in a nutshell. Saturday, we headed down to Mariupol – a small city on the coast about a 90-minute train ride from Donetsk. We spent the day at the beach; we played Frisbee, napped, and dipped our feet in the Sea of Azov.

People didn’t much like us there. We overheard several people making fun of us and our Ukrainian on several different occasions. A crazy fish-selling lady hurled racial slurs at Andrijko. A random man offered Andrijko a haircut on the beach for 15 hryvni. Andrijko didn’t give in (again, sorry Mama). After some delicious borshcht at a café near the train station, we headed back to Donetsk for a relaxing evening.

Speaking of borshcht, Andrijko had it several times while in Donetsk.  Donetsk train station borshcht = not bad.  Mariupol train station borshcht = better. Korsar Café borshcht in Donetsk = best! They put RIBS in their borshcht. Throwing Andrijko’s favourite food into his favourite soup was a nice surprise. He may or may not have shed a tear. No further comment.

We are now back in Kyiv, safe and sound after a twelve-hour train ride (we didn’t take the high-speed on the way back). It is so nice to be back. Baba Vera greeted us with some fresh-baked bread, and people here don’t make fun of us for trying to speak Ukrainian. That’s pretty much all we need!

Stay tuned for more updates, and some pictures from our weekend trip!

Leave us some nice comments :) 

Saturday 16 June 2012

Donestk...

sucks.

Donetsk is a drab, utilitarian, archaic concrete box. Pretty much everything is on fire... except the Lenin statue. Not too much access to internet here - we will fill everyone in on our 3-day jaunt to Donetsk once we get back to home turf in beautifully familiar Kyiv!

Tuesday 12 June 2012

Game Day Photos

Madness. Sheer madness. From beginning to end, the crowd volume was deafening in Olympic Stadium. We'll write something up in a day or two, but as you might imagine, Kyiv went insane yesterday in the best possible way. Enjoy the pictures, and you'll have some words soon enough!

We got interviewed a few times yesterday...here's Zenko being his eloquent self!

Tracz boys came to town for the game!

Part of our pre-game gathering at Taras Bulba. About 50 North Americans came out!


We made it onto the jumbotron in the Fan Zone!

Yes, Zenon is giving beer to a horse.


View from our seats. Back row!


Canadians everywhere!

Hello, Militsiya. 

Sunday 10 June 2012

The Masses Descend onto Maidan Nezalezhnosti

EURO 2012 is well underway, and the electric atmosphere we all knew would accompany the tournament has finally made its presence felt, and then some!

On Saturday night, tens of thousands of soccer (we're still trying to train our brains to refer to the game as "football") fans made their way to the Fan Zone set up on Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) to watch the evening's two matches. We didn't realize just how many people there were until we went off to buy some beers. Taking a step back, one is almost awestruck seeing the masses all watching the game, cheering, and enjoying the finest football (yep) that Europe has to offer.






It's not just Ukrainian fans here, either. Greek fans dressed in togas mingle with Italian fans sporting flags, scarves, and loads of facepaint. German fans, hair dyed black and orange, have friendly foosball matches against passionate English fans at one of many Carlsberg tents . Danish fans throw beer in the air and jump on top of one another when their team scores. Dutch fans abound, dressed head-to-toe in bright orange. An eyesore for some, but you'll never lose them in the dark! A good strategy for partying if there was one.

Side thought: if the Netherlands makes the final and Maidan is filled with these orange-clad football enthusiasts on July 1st, could we have another Orange Revolution on our hands? Maybe the opposition forces in Ukraine are hoping for that. If they aren't prepared, Zenon is fully ready to jump in and lead the charge. Ми з Тобою - Чиж 2012!

Last night was also a glorious reunion for us, as England's sexiest man, Zenon Dzula, and his cohort of British Ukrainians met up with us for our night of merriment. Who did you think we meant? Prince William? Heck no! It's going to be a great month with these folks.

Zenon, Zenon, and Zenon. Good luck remembering all their names.
 After enjoying both games, we all headed to Docker's ABC pub nearby to continue our festivities. Walking out of there at 5 a.m., off we went to McDonald's. For the second day in a row, Andrijko was not able to have any egg-based McD's breakfast dish. Maximum frustration ensued. Add to that the fact that Zenon bought grape juice for the apartment, it was not a happy morning for Andrijko. Who the heck likes grape juice?

We wear our sunglasses at night. Those of us who are cool, anyway.
Something very interesting happened midway though the Germany - Portugal match. In true Ukrainian fashion, our British friends began to casually sing a Ukrainian song. Almost immediately, the curious gazes of local Ukrainians not knowing what to think turned into a small crowd, all of them jumping, clapping, chanting, and singing at the top of their lungs. A guitarist and bongo-ist (bongoloid?) even joined in for some accompaniment.



We had some interesting conversations with the curious Ukrainian onlookers. They were incredibly surprised, but at the same time incredibly happy, that people beyond the borders of Ukraine know the language, sing the songs, and love the country. The language issue, we found, is what seems to surprise them the most. They'll start to speak to us in broken English, but once we respond in Ukrainian, we converse like old friends. Not many people here know that such a strong Ukrainian community exists outside of Ukraine. Perhaps it's time to educate the Ukrainian masses.

After the sing-a-long ended with Ukraine's National Anthem and many rounds of "Cлава Україні! Героям Cлава!", some of our previous feelings of doubt and worry went away. We know that just because some people gathered with us to sing songs does not mean that everything is fine. We'll be the first to say that. But there are good people here, who love Ukraine as much as any of you reading this right now.  These are the kinds of people we love meeting in this country.

Saturday 9 June 2012

ATTENTION! PRE-GAME PLAN FOR JUNE 11 GAME - UKRAINE V. SWEDEN

ATTENTION! PRE-GAME PLAN FOR JUNE 11 GAME - UKRAINE V. SWEDEN

For everyone in Kyiv for the first Ukraine game on the 11th - we are all meeting up at Taras Bulba restaurant at 3 pm! The restaurant is on the corner of Pushkinska and Prorizna, one block up from Khreshchatyk, up the street from the purple Epicentre stage in the fan zone. Text Andrijko Semaniuk at +380 63 3837303 if you need more info!

Click the link below for a map: 

http://pubs.org.ua/ua-kiev/restaurant/taras-bulba.html


See you then! 

Ukrainian Pin-Up Girls

Ukrainian pin-up girls found in Taras Bulba restaurant in Kyiv!

These are the best things we have ever seen. Someone please make these in Canada.

Note: These are just a few of them...there are some which we have deemed to graphic for this blog...for now.






TWSS


Thursday 7 June 2012

Please - Soccer Without the Politics!

In terms of tourist safety, Kyiv is not as "dangerous" a place as the world currently holds it to be. We have our hands on our passports at all time, and frankly, we feel like idiots. True, some Kyivans can be forward or even aggressive, but as far as we've seen, this never translates to a real confrontation, physical or verbal. Speaking with other ex-pats and longer term tourists, many can't see what the hubbub is about. Much of it is overblown in the Western media; videos of Ukrainian racism in sports abound on the internet, and warnings to various groups of tourists are ubiquitous. This isn't Afghanistan in the 1979, it's not Chechnya in 1994, it's not even Georgia in 2009. You'll be fine.

Apprehension about Ukraine has led to protests, and these protests have led to boycotts. We've always felt that boycotts of Ukraine in general are not the way to go for Western politicians, and engaging in this type of practice is especially unwarranted for Euro Cup. An international sports tournament is not a forum for polemics and politics. This tournament should unite the masses, not divide the continent. Let us humble plebs have our beloved sport without the platitudes, and without the grandstanding. There is no doubt that we need to act on the actions of the Yanukovych regime, and act quickly. But give us uninterrupted soccer bliss until July 1, and we'll lead the charge ourselves on July 2.

Wednesday 6 June 2012

North Americans Begin to Invade Ukraine

Tonight, we met up with some friends of ours from Alberta. It's very fitting that we went to a restaurant established by a Canadian - Vesuvio's Pizzeria!

People here seem surprised that we came from Canada. We tell them, "Just you wait!" Tons of us will be in this country; it should be quite a party!


Olympijskyj Stadium is ready to go!

Pictures don't do it justice; it's much bigger in real life.

And yes, that is what she said.